Before ordering your custom made surfboard online or in store, it is important to understand how each element of the surfboard will effect its performance.
Here are some basic guidelines and technical data to assist you in making an informed choice when ordering your next custom made surfboard online.
Please note that for each model in our range the drop down for all option choices has been set to the most common selection for that board (default). If you are unsure on any of the options you can leave it set to the default or Contact Us for further clarification before ordering.
Rounded Square: Blend of Squash and Saw tails. Most commonly used on shortboards.
Rounded Pin: Similar to a Pin tail but more versatile. Most commonly used on step up boards however can give be used with a shortboard to gain more control through turns. Also a favourite with more powerful surfers.
Swallow: The swallow tail is derived from the Squash tail in that it has the same width at the very bottom of the tail. From there a vee is cut into the tail to create a shape not dissimilar two Pin tails. The result is a tail that has more bite through critical turns than the Squash tail but is much easier to manoeuvre that the Pin tail.
Round Tail: The Round tail has a bit more surface area than the Pin which results in a very smooth tail with a little more manoeuvrability. Common on shortboards and boards with a fuller outline also.
Pin: Most commonly used on guns and step up boards. The Pin tail has the most control of all tail options. They are extremely hard to manoeuvre but will be something you can trust when you your board to hold in critical waves.
Saw (Square): Similar concept to the Squash and Round Square tail options but the rail outline coming to a square point at the very end of the tail. This option will have more bite than it’s counterparts but wont carry the same amount of release.
Squash: Last but not least. The Squash is the most commonly used tail of the modern era. Widely considered to be the most versatile tail shape to transfer across all surfboard models. More direct than a pin tail and less abrupt than a square tail. First choice if you cant make up your mind.
Low: Clearly this rail has the least amount of foam. The Low rail is most commonly used by Groms or on step up boards for more powerful waves. Whilst this rail is more responsive due to having less volume please note that it in turn needs more power in the conditions to stop this rail bogging through turns. Generally suited to more experienced surfers.
Medium: The most common rail shape. Suited to all abilities and fits well with most shapes.
Boxy: High volume rails. A good choice for a heavier surfer or novice also. Some more powerful surfers may also like this option. Note the more foam in the rail the harder it is to bury it through a turn so not normally suited to intermediate surfers under 8okg. Novices will like this rail due to the extra forgiveness.
Low Boxy: Simply a lower volume version of the boxy rail. May be a better option for an intermediate surfer wanting to give a boxier rail a go.
Flat: Pretty self explanatory the flat bottom is flat. Not as common in the modern boards the flat bottom is more suited to fatter conditions. Not ideal in larger surf as it is harder to control.
Vee: Vee bottoms is generally attributed to rail to rail surfing. Not as common as the concave bottoms however can be a good option for step up boards.
Single Concave: Single concave is designed for speed. The concave bottom creates lift which in turn allows water travelling from nose to tail to take place more rapidly. Not as manoeuvrable as the Double concave this bottom is a good option for more powerful conditions.
Double Concave: Double concave creates two channels for the water to pass on the bottom of your board. This is a little looser than the single concave however it is pretty rare to see a double concave bottom only as it is usually paired up with the Single concave (Single/Double Concave)
Single Double Concave: This is the most commonly used bottom contour for many of the boards shaped today. The Single concave under the front foot creates speed whilst the double concave through the fins maintains the speed and allows the board to be easily transitioned onto the rail for dynamic turns.
The easiest way to understand the glassing process is this: The first number attached to each of the glassing options is related to the bottom of your board. So in essence the 4 x 6 option means a layer of 4oz Fibreglass cloth on the bottom of the board and a layer of 6oz on the deck (bottom x deck). 4 x 6 x 4 means you have a layer of 4oz of cloth on the bottom and one layer each of 4oz and 6oz cloth on the deck of the surfboard (bottom x deck x deck). Note generally that the lighter the glassing the better the board will perform however if you are someone that isn’t fond of depressions we wouldn’t suggest selecting the comp or light options. As a general rule the bigger the board the heavier the glass job. If you are uncertain feel free to contact us ….
Carbon Tail Patches: Easy way to offer some reinforcement the rail area of your tail. Usually the worst affected area for depressions the tail patches can work as an aid to stopping the dreaded rail blow out. Once the rail section of the tail has cracked through it is virtually impossible to fix as in most cases the rail curve of the board is affected.
Kevlar Rails: Kevlar is used for many purposes including Boats and Body Armour because of the sheer strength to weight ratio. By measure it is 5 times the strength of steel if it were the same weight. Think about that for a second. Clearly the ocean is an extremely powerful beast however if you have a tendency to break boards this may be an option for you. Usually paired up with a lighter glass job to keep the weight down and lateral strength up.
Carbon Rails: Carbon has a very wide array of uses in its many forms but the bottom line is the Carbon weave used on the rails of a surfboard is again designed to give ultimate strength to your surfboard. As with Kevlar it is suggested to marry this option with a lighter glass job to minimise the weight. The initial thought is that the carbon will stiffen up the board to much but many customers have praised the opposite saying that it almost feels as though it spring loads the board somewhat during turns.
Carbon Strip: Similar concept to the Carbon and Kevlar rails the bottom strip is designed to offer some strength to the board whilst also adding spring during turns. Currently it is the most popular option.
Protec Wetrub: This is the standard finish for most surfboards on the market and put simply is a clear coat applied at the final stage of manufacturing. This is to conceal any exposed cloth and minor scratches so they don’t sho up in the finished product. Also the Protec is used as a means to seal any artwork that is applied after the board is glassed. Usually art that is applied on one side of the board only is done after the glassing process simply because the clarity of the design is higher. If the art is an all over design or around the rails of the board it is done beneath the fibreglass to stop it from rubbing off the areas that are prone to hitting abrasive surfaces (rails/tail etc).
Polish (Gloss): The Polish finish is a very labour intensive process to bring the finish of a surfboard up to a really glossy shine. At the stage where a board is usually finished with Protec there is another layer of very fine resin known in the industry as finish resin. This is a final coat that is applied before being cut back, taken through a process of varying grades of wet sanding, and finally machine polished to get the end result. The final layer of finish resin is applied so as to fill any minor pin holes and scratches that would not normally be visible to the naked eye but with a high gloss finish will stand out considerably.
FCS 2 (New): The FCS 2 system has been a revolution in removable fin design. The system allows you attach and remove your fins in a matter of seconds without using screws. We have included a link to explain how the system works. Good news is you can still use your old fcs fins in this system by using screws to attach the fins as per the original fcs system.
FCS (2 tab): This is the original FCS fin system. Still available for those who want it and the only removable fin option for channel bottom boards.
FCS Fusion: This was originally designed for epoxy boards so that the plugs were in place prior to the boards being vacuum bagged and cured. This meant that the plugs had cloth over the top ensuring a good seal around the plug and also added strength. The fusion is functional with two tab fcs fins and can be used with P.U boards also.
Futures: Futures is an alternate fin system whereby the whole base of the fin is attached to the plug and is fixed by a single screw at the front of the fin. Very popular amongst customers who like the feel of a fixed fin as they system allows very minimal flex at the base giving a similar feeling.
Fin Box: The box fin is nearly exclusively used on Mals however of recent we have making quite a few micro mals and single fins (Lone Slider) also. The box allows you to move the position of the fin to get the most out of your board.
Thruster: The most common fin set up for the majority of boards produced today. Simple explanation is three fins. Predominantly seen on boards up to the 8 foot region.
Quad: The quad was almost a thing of the past until its recent resurgence. The quad or four fin option can be a good alternate for wider fishy type models and also boards that will be mostly ridden in barreling type of waves.
Tri-Quad: The best of both worlds. Not often seen on the performance model shortboards but can be a great option to get more variety out of the on board.
Twin: Made famous by the likes of the Mark Richards. The twinny isn’t often used on performance boards but usually aligned with retro fishes and the like. The twinny is quite loose and free flowing and generally suited to less powerful conditions.
Single: The single fin has made a bit of a comeback of recent due to many shapers producing more egg style shapes and mid length boards.