Tales From The Big Rock – Hawaii 2014
So the boys (Jono and Reesy) have returned from their incredible Hawaiian North shore adventure.
They haven’t stopped raving about perfect cylindrical waves which certainly stretched their abilities and gave them an insight into Hawaiian surfing culture and watermanship. There dying to share their experiences they had over the week that they were there, so here is a little snippet from the boys perspective.
BM: So In short, how was your trip to Hawaii?
JD: Nothing compared to the luxuries that we were surrounded by on this trip. To get waves at some of the most respected surfing destinations in the world… wow it was insane and something i can never forget.
CR: It was a memorable trip that’s for sure. Sick waves, amazing house few beers…awesome!!
BM: Ok we get it. It was unreal! Haha. What day comes to mind as being the best or most unforgettable?
JD: I recon the first day rockin in at pumping 10ft (to us, 8ft to the locals) sunset and being the first 2 out in the water
CR: It’s…It’s such a different wave, I’ve never surfed anything like that before. That west Bowl that you always hear about coming at you from like that angle from the left….Just big sets coming at you and everyone just start scrambling to get over it. Yeah I’ve never surfed or seen anything like it.
BM: Are there any wave specific skills that you need to catch these waves? Etc Pipeline, Sunset, Backdoor?
CR: Yeah you’ve probably got to paddle harder than anywhere else in the world.
JD: You’ve got to know where to paddle as well, you can’t just paddle in on the shoulder. No shoulder hopping over here. (laughs)
CR: Yeah well Jamie O’Brien Is a classic example. We were all sitting there scrambling to the shoulder on a big west set and he paddles straight in to the bowl and first wave gets so pitted. And were all like Oahhh so that’s how it’s done (Laughs)
BM: So what advice would you guys give to other surfers or tourists heading to Hawaii?
JD: I would probably say be humble and respectful to the locals and the waves and take in the beauty that surrounds you.
CR: Yeah I think everyone has heard about the localism in the water in Hawaii. I guess Don’t get greedy and paddle straight into position, just take a moment out on the shoulder check it out and wait your turn. Going in late in the season was a good call, really uncrowded and we scored great waves. 20 people at pipe same at sunset so yeah it was unreal.
JD: Yeah a massive shout out to the locals for the experience gained and the opportunity to surf your backyard.
CR: Yeah yeah.
BM: So with pumping waves surely someone had at least a minor run in with a Hawaiian reef?
Criag: You had a scrape on your hand didn’t you Jono?
JD: Yeah I tried to duck dive a set at backdoor where the close out meets off the wall and its super shallow…we’re talking ankle deep and sure enough knuckle grazed my hands across the reef. Better trying to get under it then copping a guillotine lip to the head. Nothing to serious tho and no broken boards which is a bonus in a place like this.
BM: So for all of us not fortunate enough to be on this trip paint for us a picture of where you were staying and your first day?
Jono: Paradise (Boys laugh). Billabong house right on backdoor perfect bluebird day offshore winds 6-8ft sets coming in at of the wall, crystal clear water….is that a good enough picture. Oah and really green grass. (laughs)
Craig: You’re right in front of off the wall and if you look to your right, your staring right into the barrel of backdoor. Yeah it’s a pretty incredible spot and an amazing house. Bloody Jono… first name out of the hat to pick what room he wanted in one of the most incredible houses around. Huge room, ensuite, views of backdoor Pipe from his private balcony (laughs) and I was down in the dungeons with Greeny mate (laughs)
BM: So were you guys happy with the quiver you took with you and would you change anything if you were to go back to Hawaii?
Jono: Bigger!!! 8ft gun at least for sunset when its 8ft plus… the 6’10 Scimitar was a tad under speced But still awesome. No the quiver we took was good. Not knowing what to expect exactly… we really were just guessing. Between the 6 boards we had the 6’8 channel and the 2 MVP’S were for me the pick.
Craig: Yeah I think that sunset again, everyone says that you’ve got to ride bigger boards and after the first ten minutes of surfing it you sort of understand why you know. You see a lot of the older local guys out there getting into them super early it’s like their on some sort of big massive ocean paddle board…. paddling past you at a million miles an hour and getting into the wave way before it breaks. Pretty cool to see.
The second time we surfed it we were actually going to surf another spot but it was a bit crowded so we decided to head back to sunset forgetting we only had our short boards with us (laughs.) so I was out there on my 6’4 MVP and it was probably 6-8ft Sunset so we were having to take off really late and underneath the lip to sort of get in the right position and by doing that you put yourself in prime position on the inside to cop a few more sets on the head.(laughs)
So you recon Jono that the channel bottom scimitar we did… basically for any step up board the scimitar is probably the pick board…
Jono: 100%.Bit of thickness, not too wide, lower entry rocker profile. That’s what gets you into the waves you know, it paddled unreal. Surfing backdoor, Sunset, Jocko’s all different types of waves and it performed unreal in all those conditions.
Craig: Yeah I got one hell wave….That massive right hander at Jocko’s, it was just a rogue set that came through. I was winding up the windows the whole way down the face (laughs). But I think in the end you’ve just got to take bigger stronger boards and we were pretty lucky… we didn’t snap any ! Surfing heavy waves 2 or 3 times a day and the only damage we came back with was a few little bumps from the airport….But when doesn’t that happen (laughs)
Jono: Yeah I was pretty much on the MVP most of the time especially later in the week I think once that swell backed off to 3-4ft they definitely got a work out that’s for sure.
BM: How did you 2 go living and surfing together for 10 days (laughs)
Jono: siiiick!!! Hungover!!! (laughs)
Craig: Hungover a bit. Too many beers bro (laughs). Oah it’s hard not to get excited of a night time when you’re sitting on the balcony overlooking the sun go down and the surfs pumping.
Jono: It was like channel Pipeline (Laughs). You could be with a serial killer and still have fun over there (laughs).
BM: Sounds unreal boys. Anything else?